The Ionian Islands. Corfu, Lefkada, Cephalonia, Ithaca and Zakynthos – a journey to the homeland of Odysseus
on1(11n) Walking / HikingCulturalIsland hoppingSmall GroupsGuided LefkadaVathy, IthacaKefalonia, Argostoli PortZakynthos CityIonian IslandsSUMMARY
12 days of hiking and cultural exploration on the islands of Western Greece, steeped in legend, history and unique beauty. A complex archipelago, towering white cliffs overlooking an emerald sea, mountains both barren and wooded; and everywhere you encounter the myth of Odysseus, "the man who suffered much." After ten years of the Trojan War, ten years of wandering, filled with adventure and suffering, he rejects the love of a goddess and the gift of immortality, convinced that "there is nothing sweeter on earth than one's homeland." Having lost everything, he is shipwrecked and lands in a cove on the Homeric island of Scheria, inhabited by the Phaeacians, where a princess takes him in. His hosts eventually arrange his return journey to Ithaca. Scheria is identified with modern-day Corfu. The island of Ithaca appears to consist of two peninsulas connected by an isthmus; the capital, Vathy, is situated on a deep bay opposite Mount Neriton. Although it appears small and poor, it holds the primary claim to be the homeland of the legendary Odysseus: "I am Odysseus, son of Laërtes... I dwell in clear-seen Ithaca, wherein is a mountain, Neriton...; and round it lie many isles hard by one another, Dulichium, and Same, and wooded Zacynthus" he says verbatim in the Odyssey. Four city-states (Tetrapolis) shared the island of Cephalonia, the largest of the Ionian Islands, dominated by Mount Ainos (1,628 m), a national park covered in Cephalonian fir (abies cephalonica) forests. "Odysseus leads the magnanimous Cephalenians..." it is said in the Iliad. The Homeric city of Dulichium was also inhabited by Cephalenians; it can be identified with modern-day Lefkada, which became an island in the 7th century BC when Corinthian colonists cut through the isthmus that connected it to the coast of Acarnania; today, a floating bridge links the island to the mainland. It alone among the Ionian Islands experienced a period of Ottoman occupation. Even Zakynthos is listed among the possessions of the Cephalonians and described as "rich in forests"; the Venetians, who dominated the Ionian Islands for over four centuries, called the island "Zante" and nicknamed it "Fior di Levante" (Flower of the East). The poet Constantine Cavafy wrote: "As you set out for Ithaca / hope your road is a long one, / full of adventure, full of discovery. /... / But don’t hurry the journey at all. / Better if it lasts for years, / so you’re old by the time you reach the island, / wealthy with all you’ve gained on the way, / not expecting Ithaca to make you rich. / Ithaca gave you the marvelous journey."
ITINERARY
Day 1 – Welcome to Corfu! Kerkyra, the island's capital: three millennia of history
Arrival in Corfu, transfer to your hotel. Time permitting, walk through the Old Town; protected by its two fortresses, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Campiello district retains a strong Venetian character. On the esplanade, the Liston building with its arcades recalls the period of French administration. The green cricket pitch and the Palace of St. Michael and St. George, residence of the High Commissioners, represent the British period. On the hill of the ancient city's acropolis, there is the Kanoni district with a very pretty view of Pontikonisi ("Mouse Island"). Overnight on Corfu
Day 2 – From Corfu to Lefkada. Varied and panoramic hike on Mount Skaros
Ferry crossing to Igoumenitsa. Transfer to Lefkada; We will travel south along the Ionian coast. The island is connected to the mainland by a floating bridge. The medieval fort of Santa Maura served temporarily as the island's capital and gave it its name. The town of Lefkada, the modern capital, is built on the isthmus between the strait and a lagoon. Transfer to Kokkini Ekklisia and loop hike along the slopes and across the plateaus of Mount Skaros, partially covered with ancient oak forests. 2 nights in Lefkada
- F/B Corfu – Igoumenitsa, 1h05min to 1h45min
- Transfer Igoumenitsa – Lefkada: 111km, 1h55min
- Transfer Lefkada – Kokkini Ekklisia – Lefkada: 42km, 1h10min
- Hike 1. Mt Skaros: approx. 11.4km, loop, ↑490m, ↓490m, 4h, moderate
Day 3 – Lefkada. Ascent of Mt Stavrotas. "Sappho's Leap." Porto Katsiki Beach
Transfer to Eglouvi in the mountainous interior of the island. The best lentils in Greece are grown on the small plateaus surrounding the village. In the solitude of the mountains, the chapel of Saint Donatos, a miraculous bishop of Epirus in the 4th century, welcomes the traveler. Ascent of Mt Stavrotas, 1,168 m, the highest peak on the island, which offers a panoramic view of Vasiliki Bay to the south and the northwestern part of Lefkada. Short transfer and hike on a scenic trail through the plateaus of Mount Elati. Transfer to the Doukato Lighthouse, perched above the cliffs of Cape Lefkatas at the southern tip of the island, also known as "Sappho's Leap": according to tradition, the poet Sappho committed suicide here due to unrequited love. On the return journey, there is an opportunity to swim at Porto Katsiki beach, at the foot of a precipice that is both majestic and terrifying.
- Transfer Lefkada – Karya – Eglouvi – Mt Stavrotas: 28km, 50min
- Hike 2. Mt Stavrotas: approx. 2.2km, round-trip, ↑205m ↓205m, 1h15min, moderate
- Transfer Mt Stavrotas – Mt Elati: 3.5km, 10min
- Hike 3. Mt Elati: approx. 3.4km, loop, ↑120m ↓120m, 1h15min, easy to moderate
- Transfer Mt Elati – Lighthouse Doukato : 35km, 1h
- Hike 4. Lighthouse Doukato – Cape Lefkatas: approx. 1.3km, partly loop, ↑35m ↓35m, 30min, easy
- Transfer Lighthouse Doukato – Porto Katsiki – Lefkada: 61km, 1h45min
Day 4 – From Lefkada to Cephalonia and Ithaca. Lefkada Town: a particular architecture. Fiskardo, a traditional village. The Venetian fortresses of Asos and Myrtos Beach
In Lefkada (also Chora of Lefkada), the capital of the island, you discover a particular architecture: earthquake-resistant houses built from lightweight materials. Several churches dating from the Venetian period are well-preserved and house beautiful icons. Transfer to the port of Vasiliki and ferry crossing to Fiskardo in northern Cephalonia, the largest of the Ionian Islands. Fiskardo is the only village on the island that survived the great earthquake of 1953 almost intact. Short loop hike to an old Venetian lighthouse and a ruined church from the early Christian period. Scenic drive to Sami: Photo stop at Asos, one of the island's most iconic spots, with panoramic views of the Venetian fortress. Photo stop above the spectacular Myrtos Bay, "the most beautiful beach in Greece," according to the locals. Passing through Agia Effimia you arrive at the port of Sami. During Greek antiquity, Cephalonia was divided into four independent city-states ("Tetrapolis"), one of which was Same, located on the site of present-day Sami, the island's main port. Ferry crossing to Pisaetos on the west side of Ithaca and transfer to its capital, Vathy, situated on a deeply indented harbor bay. Although essentially a village, it has the character of a small town; the colorful houses are built directly around the harbor, as well as amphitheater-like on the slopes above. A statue of Odysseus and a bust of Homer welcome you to the square by the sea. 3 nights in Vathy
- Transfer Lefkada – Vasiliki: 37km, 50min
- F/B Vasiliki – Fiskardo, 1h
- Hike 5. Fiskardo – Venetian Lighthouse: approx. 1.5km, loop, ↑25m ↓25m, 30min, easy
- Transfer Fiskardo – Asos – Myrtos – Agia Effimia – Sami: 39km, 55min
- F/B Sami – Pisaetos , 30min
- Transfer Pisaetos – Vathy, 7km, 15min
Day 5 – Ithaca. Traces of Antiquity: The “School of Homer”. Hike to Exogi
Visit to the interesting little archaeological museum in Vathy. Transfer to Stavros; the monumental village church, dedicated to Jesus, houses in a silver sarcophagus the relics of Saint Joachim, a holy monk from Mount Athos who came from Stavros. In the small archaeological museum, a votive inscription on a pottery shard mentions the name of Odysseus, a significant argument that Homer's Ithaca corresponds to the present-day island. Hike along ancient, partially paved paths to the archaeological site known as "Homer's School" and the village of Exogi, on the slopes of Mt Dourecha; panoramic views of the northern part of the island, the sea, the mainland, and Lefkada. Continue to the Panagia Eleousa Monastery, located at the summit of Pernarakia and offering 360° panoramic views. Descend to Stavros via a different route
- Transfer Vathy – Stavros – Vathy: 34km, 1h
- Hike 6. Stavros – Exogi: approx. 9km, loop, ↑510m ↓510m, 3h30min, moderate
Day 6 – Ithaca. From Anogi to Kioni. Katharon Monastery
Transfer to the solitary village of Anogi on the eastern slopes of Mount Neriton; its ancient Church of the Virgin houses beautiful Byzantine frescoes. A shaded path leads down to Kioni, a picturesque little port on a sheltered bay in the northeast of the island. Enjoy a swim and picnic lunch, then return to Anogi via a different route. On the transfer to Vathy, a short detour to Katharon Monastery is recommended: the monastery buildings resemble a fortress; the church, extensively restored after the 1953 earthquake, is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the island's patron saint.
- Transfer Vathy – Anogi: 16km, 30min
- Hike 7. Anogi – Kioni: approx. 15km, loop, ↑615m ↓615m, 5h, moderate
- Transfer Anogi – Katharon – Vathy: 19km, 40min
Day 7 – From Ithaca to Cephalonia. Scenic hike to Perachori.
Enjoy a scenic hike along the eastern slopes of Mount Nerovoulo, from the Cave of the Nymphs to Perachori. You walk along a partially paved path, passing small chapels and ancient threshing floors, offering panoramic views of Vathy Bay. In the afternoon, transfer to Pisaetos, ferry to Sami, and transfer to Argostoli. 2 nights on Cephalonia
- Hike 8. Vathy – Perachori: approx. 7km, loop, ↑365 ↓365m, 2h40min, easy to moderate
- Transfer Vathy – Pisaetos: 7km, 15min
- F/B Pisaetos – Sami, 30min
- Transfer Sami – Argostoli: 26km, 35min
Day 8 – Cephalonia. Ascent of Mount Ainos. The Monastery of St Gerasimos. The capital, Argostoli
Drive to Mount Ainos National Park. Hike through the Cephalonian fir (abies cephalonica) forest to the summit of Megas Soros, 1628m. The entire island is at your feet! Panoramic view towards the island's capital, Argostoli, the south coast and Zakynthos. On the way to Argostoli, visit the Monastery of St Gerasimos, the island's patron saint (schedule permitting). Nearby are the cellars of the Robola winery, producing the traditional Cephalonian wine. Just outside the village of Peratata is the Fortress of Saint George, which was the island's capital during the Venetian era. Visit Argostoli; despite the devastation caused by earthquakes and war, it is a charming place, built on a peninsula in the deep bay of Livadi. You continue your journey towards the Argostoli katavothres (a karst phenomenon corresponding to ponors) and the Lighthouse of Sts Theodores.
- Transfer: Argostoli – Mount Ainos – Agios Gerasimos – Argostoli – Lighthouse of Agii Theodori: 77km, 2h15min
- Hike 9. Mt Ainos: approx. 8.9km, loop, ↑500m ↓500m, 3h, moderate (a shorter option is possible)
Day 9 – From Cephalonia to Zakynthos. Visit to the island's capital.
Ferry crossing to Zakynthos. Visit to the island's capital of the same name (the Chora of Zakynthos). Although almost entirely rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake, it remains a pleasant port city, with beautiful squares where several old churches still stand; statues commemorate the island's illustrious sons: Among others, the poet Dionysios Solomos, lyricist of the Greek national anthem, was born in Zakynthos. The Church of Saint Dionysios, the island's patron saint, is located near the port. The Byzantine Museum houses an interesting collection of icons. Short hike to the Venetian fortress of Bochali, which offers a panoramic view of the town and the coast. 3 nights in Zakynthos
- Hike 10. Chora – Bochali: approx. 5km, loop, ↑200m ↓200m, 2h, easy
Day 10 – Zakynthos. Island Tour. Hike to the abandoned monastery of Agios Andreas
A central mountain range runs across the island from northwest to southeast, dividing it into two quite distinct parts: the western region is mountainous and slopes steeply down to the sea; the eastern part is flatter and opens onto Laganas Bay. The Church of St Maura in Macherado boasts an impressive bell tower. The villages of Kiliomenos and Agios Leon cling to the mountainside. At the Anafonitria monastery, Saint Dionysios lived as a monk and spent his last years there. From the abandoned monastery of Saint George, a short detour leads to a famous viewpoint: from there, one can admire the spectacular white cliffs overlooking Navagio beach, the most photographed spot on the island. Volimes is the largest village in the north of the island; several traditional houses and a few old churches are preserved. Hike to the abandoned monastery of Agios Andreas. Drive to the Skinari Lighthouse at the northern tip of the island. Return to town along the northeast coast
- Island tour drive, Chora – Macherado – Volimes – Skinari – Chora, 90km, 2h40min
- Hike 11. Volimes – Agios Andreas, approx. 10km, loop, ↑180m ↓180m, 3h, easy to moderate
Day 11 – Zakynthos. Hike to Mount Skopos and the Panagia Skopiotissa Monastery
Transfer to Kalamaki on Laganas Bay. We will hike to the abandoned Panagia Skopiotissa Monastery and the summit of Mt Skopos (491m) via a scenic trail; superb views of the south of the island, Laganas Bay and the Ionian Sea. Free afternoon; opportunity to go to the beach and/or take a walk in the city.
- Transfer Chora – Kalamaki – Chora: 12km, 30min
- Hike 12. Kalamaki – Mount Skopos: approx. 10km, round trip, ↑520m ↓520m, 3h30min, moderate
Day 12 – Farewell!
Airport transfer
HIGHLIGHTS
- Corfu's Venetian-influenced Old Town
- Earthquake-resistant houses and restored Venetian churches in Lefkada's Old Town
- Vathy, the capital of Ithaca, situated on a deeply indented harbor bay
- Chora of Zakynthos, the island's capital, a pleasant city with a Levantine flair
- Beautiful walks through forests and scrubland, along verdant slopes and by the emerald sea
- Panoramic views from the island mountains: Mt Stavrotas, Mt Ainos, Mt Dourecha et Mt Skopos
- The spectacular white coastal cliffs of Lefkada and Cephalonia
TRAVEL NOTES
HIKING
- 12 hikes, ranging from 1h to 5h walking time and easy to moderate in difficulty, are planned. Hiking shoes are necessary; walking poles and a small daypack are highly recommended.
- You will also explore the island capitals on foot.
ACCOMMODATION
- 11 nights in a hotel/guesthouse with breakfast
- Overnight stays: Corfu, 1 night; Lefkada, 2 nights; Ithaca, 3 nights; Cephalonia, 2 nights; Zakynthos, 3 nights
MEALS
Breakfast at the hotel; dinner at the hotel or in a local tavern; for lunch: picnic or light meal; drinks are not included.
PRICES
based on a group of 5 to 8 people
- Double occupancy: €2,509 per person
- Single occupancy: € 2,894 per person
The price includes:
- 11 nights in a hotel with breakfast
- Full board (10 picnics or light lunches, 10 dinners in a tavern or at the hotel)
- English-speaking guide/tour leader
- Transportation, visits and excursions, as per the program
- Professional liability insurance
- Insolvency insurance, VAT and all applicable taxes
- NOT INCLUDED: Round-trip flights to Greece; entrance fees to museums and archaeological sites; travel insurance; drinks, tips, and other extras
IMPORTANT NOTE
Subject to change: The program must be adapted to weather conditions, the opening hours of museums and archaeological sites, the level of the group, problems with overcrowding in accommodations and the condition of the hiking trails.
- Lefkada
- Vathy, Ithaca
- Kefalonia, Argostoli Port
- Zakynthos City
- Ionian Islands




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